Using a flash seems to complicate everything!

[henniebez]

Hi there. Using a flash seems to complicate everything!
Equipment
Alpha 700
16-80 F3.5-4.5
HVL 56 Flash

I am struggling taking pictures on the dance floor whith poor light. Sometimes it is whashed out and other times it is so noisy and dark! ISO is never higher than 640-800. I prefer 400 Any suggestions?

I shoot aperture priority or shutter piority. Flash is on TTL. Centre weighted metering. I am doing my first wedding as a paid photographer assistent! So please, me and my alpha are desperate for help!

[Javelin]

I had/have a hard time with the flash too. but if I learned anything it's to learn to use the compensation and which situations to use it in. I'll bet even in your underexposed shots there is at least 1 object thats perfectly exposed. I've never tried flash in the environment your describing but I will say bounce works very well with the Sony flashes and also getting closer than you would think to your subject

[KevinBarrett]

I just shot a wedding with the a700 + Tamron 17-50 + F56 flashgun combo and it was tough. They had a poorly (non) lit dance floor outdoors so bouncing wasn't an option. It was more or less like shooting in the dead of night with a few Christmas lights in the back ground. The camera consistently chose f/5.6 1/60 sec., ISO 800 when in full-auto. I didn't get many usable shots at all, but it is more due to the fact that there were no more than a dozen people at any given time on the 1800 sq.ft. dance floor. Luckily there was a dance floor indoors as well, which had more light, but the ceiling wasn't suitable for bouncing, so I used maximum aperture to shoot anything that would stay still long enough to focus on and preserved the native atmosphere. I had to shoot A LOT at that reception.

[David Kilpatrick]

To get the right atmosphere and exposure, set:

ISO 400 or 800
Use direct flash (actually, the camera's own flash is not bad)
Set Night Portrait mode unless there are very few backlights - if there's plenty of light around in the dance environment, use Night Portrait
Set DRO to manual +3
Aim to use in-camera JPEGs as your final product

If you find the background is interfering, switch for NP to Program or Aperture priority, or even use manual and select your own shutter speed (say 1/30th instead of the 1/60th normally forced).

This combination will give you some unexpectedly good results in apparently impossible conditions.

David

[pakodominguez]

ISO 400 or 800
Use direct flash (actually, the camera's own flash is not bad)
Set Night Portrait mode unless there are very few backlights - if there's plenty of light around in the dance environment, use Night Portrait
Set DRO to manual +3
...

In my own experience, if the background or the general ambiance is dark, DRO will result on a over processed look image. better to work on M mode and lower the speed in order to get environmental light (but not tooo much because WB won't handle it)

The best way to learn is going to different events and try different techniques -not just the TTL-on-camera solution.

In Argentina they have a popular expression: isn't just blowing that you make bottles...


Regards

[Greg Beetham]

I must admit I never thought of night portrait mode, correct me if I'm wrong David (I've hardly ever used it myself), doesn't night portrait mode do rather longish shutters, that might not be too good for people moving on a dance floor at high ISO's, OTOH it might be really good if you want the ghost blurred movement effect, then finishing off with the flash solid image as well...also it depends I guess if night portrait is rear curtain sync...I can't remember offhand.
Greg

[David Kilpatrick]

That's why I say do not use Night Portrait unless there's plenty of disco lighting around - it is first curtain sync so care is needed. But, when you can make it work, it balances the flash and existing light superbly. It is worth trying NP in many circumstances where you would not think of it, including regular interior portraits which are not at night.

David