Wireless flash

[roysmith]

I found out that when I use my hvl-f58am flash in wireless mode using the popup from my A700 to trigger it, the light from the popup itself can be seen in the picture. Is there any way to prevent this? I made some kind of film-filter and wrapper the popup flash with it so it will still trigger the 58 but won't show in the picture, but I was looking for a more "clean" solution
I prefer not to use cables by the way.

[David Kilpatrick]

Will only happen if you have the pop up very close to the subject, and the remote flash very far away or heavily bounced/diffused. Use a longer lens and get more distant from the subject; move the remote flash in closer.

David

[roysmith]

I'm using my 50mm, the room is small and I like the light very diffused from the top/side of the subject. I use a white umbrella to bounce the flash, which is aimed away from the subject.
I guess I'll have to try another position for the flash, or keep using my "filmter" then

Thanks!

[UrsaMajor]

I found out that when I use my hvl-f58am flash in wireless mode using the popup from my A700 to trigger it, the light from the popup itself can be seen in the picture. Is there any way to prevent this? I made some kind of film-filter and wrapper the popup flash with it so it will still trigger the 58 but won't show in the picture, but I was looking for a more "clean" solution
I prefer not to use cables by the way.

One possible approach is to use High Speed Sync. HSS reduces the effective guide number of your flash, but its use can eliminate the contribution from the on-camera flash. Gary Friedman has a discussion of this in his newsletter from last October. You can find that newsletter at:

http://www.friedmanarchives.com/newslet ... /index.htm

With best wishes,
- Tom -

[KevinBarrett]

The other option is to put a filter over the on-camera flash. I forget how exactly, but it seems a fellow took some unused film, had it developed (still unexposed), and placed the film negative over his on-camera flash. The film filtered out the visible light but allowed the sync signal through. I think.

[UrsaMajor]

The other option is to put a filter over the on-camera flash. I forget how exactly, but it seems a fellow took some unused film, had it developed (still unexposed), and placed the film negative over his on-camera flash. The film filtered out the visible light but allowed the sync signal through. I think.

You do not even need to dedicate an unused roll of film for that, or pay any extra to develop that roll. The unexposed "trailer" at the end of a regular roll of negative film that has been developed will be sufficient. Just cut that to a suitable length and tape it over the "bulb" of the on-camera flash. The dark film strip will greatly suppress the visible portion of the spectrum, but should normally allow enough of the infra-red through to trigger the remote flash.

However, in his initial posting Roy said that he had already used this technique, but would prefer to find a cleaner solution - if possible.

With best wishes,
- Tom -

[roysmith]

Yes I'm already using that film trick, and it works it just looks ugly taping the film to the flash. But HSS is a good idea, didn't think on that as I mostly use aperture priority. Will give it a try.

Thanks!

[Greg Beetham]

The solution is just as David said, fix the position of the camera and flash. The F58 isn't aimed at the subject? What do you expect is going to happen?
Greg

[roysmith]

I actually like the results I'm getting with this setup so far, so I'll try first using HSS, maybe that can help. If not then I guess I'll keep using the film trick or change the setup somehow.
I'm attaching a diagram of the lighting setup I'm using. I know is simple, but it's all I got

[Greg Beetham]

I'm not familiar with the F58, does it have a little signal window like the F56? if so you might have to rotate the body so it's pointing at the camera so it can 'see' the camera flash better, also try shining a bright torch in the direction the flash head is pointed at so you can get an idea of how much light is being reflected by the reflector towards the subject, a good portion could quite easily be missing the subject.
Greg

ps. Good diagram btw.

[roysmith]

The signal window is larger than the F56 but I don't know if it's just a cosmetic difference or the sensor is also bigger.
Your idea is good but unfortunately, because of the design of the F58, I can't rotate it that way. You can see how it rotates here: http://www.photoclubalpha.com/2008/06/1 ... hvl-f58am/

I'll try the reflection tip, sounds useful. So far I've been aligning it by eye only.

Thanks!

[Greg Beetham]

No left body rotation at all? most flashes usually give at least 1/2 a turn....oh well, if its on a ball head you could always try it lying down with the body window side facing the camera and the flash head pointing straight 'up' horizontally... did that make sense?
Greg

ps. Er hang on, the F58 can flop the body sideways can't it? What about flopping the body to the right and then flipping the flash 'straight up' horizontally (there I go again), and then rotate the body (stand and all) towards the camera....phew

[KevinBarrett]

Unfortunately, due to the unconventional flash head rotation design, the F58 flash gun is better suited to on-camera flash than for off-camera flash setups. I'm not sure how I would set it up in an umbrella with optical triggering in mind. The F56 is better suited for this, IMO, though I believe HSS doesn't operate once the head is tilted or moved off-center (is this the case for the F58 as well?).

[Greg Beetham]

HSS is pathetic flash anyway, who needs it? except possibly for daylight (and backlit) flash fill at unavoidably high shutter speeds I try to avoid it myself as much as possible, if you can keep your shutter speed at or below 1/200sec (depends on how much ambient light there is, ISO, f-stop etc.) you should have full 1/1 power avalable. (btw HSS won't work with rear curtain engaged either, I found out the other day when I was fooling around with something else)
Greg

[roysmith]

According to the F58 manual HSS won't work when the flash is tilted (bounce flash). But I don't need it to be tilted since I bounce it straight to the umbrella. Will give it a try when I have the time. Anyway is not a big deal really, if it doesn't work I'll just keep using my "film filter" and move on. It looks very ugly but it works perfectly. I used a 35mm film canister, cutted a couple of windows and taped some old developed film on one window. Left the other one open. It fits the popup flash well and the results are much better, but it just looks... wrong.