Sony HVL-F60M Flash

Cabled, wireless, studio - anything do with using flash
Iknowit
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Sony HVL-F60M Flash

Unread post by Iknowit »

Anyone knows how to get HSS when the flash is in bounced modes?

I have no problem getting it on Canon flashes.
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Dr. Harout
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Re: Sony HVL-F60M Flash

Unread post by Dr. Harout »

Impossible on present Sony flashes.
A99 + a7rII + Sony, Zeiss, Minolta, Rokinon and M42 lenses

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Greg Beetham
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Re: Sony HVL-F60M Flash

Unread post by Greg Beetham »

It would be a waste of battery power anyway Doc, as well as a waste of time.
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bfitzgerald
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Re: Sony HVL-F60M Flash

Unread post by bfitzgerald »

I have tried this on a 5dMkII and 580EX II flash, HSS with bounce
Bar a few specialist applications (not sure maybe a light tent or something like that a small area, there isn't enough power even with a faster lens, even at higher ISO levels to bounce off the ceiling and illuminate your subject properly.

Unless you start using really fast lenses and very high ISO levels it's not going to be much use.
So I personally don't really lose sleep over this one.

However there is a simple way to get HSS bounce, just use the flash off camera in dedicated wireless. This allows HSS. Or use an off camera flash cable.
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Greg Beetham
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Re: Sony HVL-F60M Flash

Unread post by Greg Beetham »

Maybe the Canon flash system is different to the Minolta flash system (or what’s left of it) HSS might have more range for example, I don’t know on that count, have never used it.

I think Barry almost for sure that HSS would be displayed on the screen only as a potential for use (depends on the ambient level, ISO and f-stop selection as well as distance x) but it would be entirely up to the system at the time of exposure what it does. There is no guarantee that even with HSS on the screen that the system will actually use it. The only way to tell might be looking at the shutter speed that was used at the time in the EXIF after the exposure.

I guess you could try to force HSS by using [S-mode] and high ISO but I think if the system decides to use sync flash that’s it for that little plan the only selectable shutter speed will be one that matches the settings + ambient light influence, if any, and if you use an ISO that’s too high for the ambient the flash will be barely discernable in the photo, (the system will regulate it down) anyway the higher the shutter speed and ISO the worse HSS becomes for distance according to the guide tables I’ve seen.

Honestly I don’t think there is any benefit from trying to force the system to use HSS at all if normal sync flash can be used instead.
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bfitzgerald
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Re: Sony HVL-F60M Flash

Unread post by bfitzgerald »

I tried it in person and yes HSS is being used (only if the sync speed is being exceeded though) that's the Canon, there is an obvious loss of power bar a really low ceiling it's not going to play ball
You can't force it to do HSS on Sony, the Metz I have allows manual mode and with HSS (if selected) as soon as the flash goes into bounce position the shutter speed drops to whatever body you are using's max sync speed is.

That's the body doing that, no way around it M mode no play, S mode can't do it body always goes to max sync speed with the flash in bounce position. On Canon if you have HSS selected on the flash it is still being used in bounce (but like I said only if you exceed the body sync speed)

That's the only workaround I've found, wireless flash with HSS or an off camera cable and point the flash up to bounce.
All the Sony flashes do HSS in wireless, so does Metz not sure about the other makers. I only really need HSS for fill flash outside
Iknowit
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Re: Sony HVL-F60M Flash

Unread post by Iknowit »

As you all have known, the Sony HVL-F60M Flash's AF and IR (just like all Canon/Metz/Sigma/Vivitar have sensor in the front body while some Nikon flashes are on the side) are in the front.

And the head swing like a car wiper blade, the body can not be rotated back.
Think of the movie, "The Karate Kid- wash on, wash off".
Your Remote can't see the Commander, resulting no flash at all once it is parked into a softbox.

If you set on camera as a Commander, you just want to turn the flash in bounce so you won't get the harsh lighting as in direct light or not on at all. But you still need the AF/IR wireless to point at Remote flash (6 or more acting as Remote to recover the power lost). This flash really sucks by overheating and shutdown if you only have three or just one of camera.
And the same time getting my six or more HVL-60M wireless IR ADI TTL adjustment all from Commander's lcd panel.

If my crew or I need more power, we use the ATG Gold 600WSr Monolight.
This is better than using Profoto B1 Monolight Set because it's compatible with Sony.
Remember this is 600 watt second at 35mm not the inflated 60GN (guide number) at 105mm setting.

Taking out the background or defusing distracting background without under exposing the background can not be done unless the flash can do HSS [HSS (Canon), Auto FP (Nikon), HSS (Sony) or ATG radio HSS (ATG)] at up to 8000 of a sync speed.

My Minolta 9xi can do 12,000.
Most Sony can do up to 8000.
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Greg Beetham
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Re: Sony HVL-F60M Flash

Unread post by Greg Beetham »

I don’t really get this ‘harsh’ stuff from direct flash either, the flash system was very good at minimizing the amount of harsh light using DIRECT FLASH even at 1/1 full power sync flash which incidentally saves battery power at the same time if not using soft boxes or bounce flash etc. unless of course the flash system is now not working as well as it once did.

Here is an example of direct flash fill at normal 1/125sec sync flash used in conjunction with the AEL button so the system balances the background light with the subject, the flash is so well done by the system you can hardly tell that flash was even used at all.
The small highlights could just as well have come from the late afternoon sun.

The subject (my grandniece) was playing under a large shady tree at the time and the dappled light was quite bad, I was using the A100 + F56 flash and the 100-300apod.

The photo is a camera jpeg with a Photoshop E11 colour correction and a small brightness adjustment. (the colour needed adjustment because the WB was a little bit off due to a preset by me that should have been re-adjusted before taking the shot)
I took about 5 similar shots that day so I might have posted one of them before or even this one but it does demonstrate that direct full power flash can be done and get good results.
Greg

A100 KM100-300APO(D) F56
DSC03592.jpg
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