Softbox foibles

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Greg Beetham
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Softbox foibles

Unread post by Greg Beetham »

I thought I'd have a play with a few flashes (two old Metz 45's and a Starblitz 3600 triggered by Morris photocell slaves) and take a shot of my new camera (might as well use it as the subject). My problem is by the time I 'white out' the sheets of acrylic (offcuts) with the necessary amount of overexposure, the subject is nearly always slightly overexposed as well (applies to any subject). The only way I can even get close to ideal is by very careful flash placement, both distance and direction and power settings. Maybe I'm not building my softlight product table correctly, (it's just a taped together box with no lid, and a side missing as well), I probably should have a long curved peice of acrylic from the base curving up to form the rear wall so I don't have a right angle seam visible in the backgound that I have to try and white out.
David your product type table has a curved product support base I think, does that make life easier? if that's the right way to do it I'll have to revisit the acrylic sheet supplier and get anothre longer piece.
I have a photo to show what I mean about the exposure.
Greg

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David Kilpatrick
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Re: Softbox foibles

Unread post by David Kilpatrick »

It's lens flare. My equipment shots all need a big adjustment to shadow level and brightness, from raw, to produce the results I get. The CZ 16-80mm is about the best lens I have found for white shooting table packshots - due to almost zero lens flare. Yes, I have a curved scoop acrylic table, two lights under it, one above.

David
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