Greg
ps. pity you couldn't flood the area with the 60 CT4...although that wouldn't be easy either....
I am quite aware of the functions of the D3X and have used the D3 and D700 before, and read the manuals (cover to cover, every page, followed by extensive back reference later). With the Alpha 900 you don't have to press any buttons. You just touch the shutter release, or any other control to make your next adjustment, and the rear screen comes to life (as long as you do not have your eye next to the finder). This is not unique to the 900, or to Sony. Each design has merits (Nikon's two-button card formatting shortcut is far superior to Sony's tedious menu-diving, which may or may not start with the right menu depending on what you did last etc). The Alpha 900 is, overall, faster and surer to use with gloves; if you are long-sighted or wearing distance specs as I prefer to when shooting; in the dark; and in certain studio situations where the camera is at a height or angle making viewing difficult. I know the Nikon top LCD can be illuminated all the time, but its information is difficult to read when the camera is set up for vertical shots. Even the rear screen reads sideways, the Sony automatically rotates the info.read the manual wrote:if you press the "info" button on a D3/D3x you get top plate info in very large scale on the 3" rear LCD. This replicates the top plate info. This also give you much more information such as colour space, ability to change focus points, type of focus mode, Continuous/Single/Manual focus, plus much more than is displayed on the top LCD.
Please read the manual.
If you have any other questions about the function of this camera i would be happy to talk you through it.



See some from a photographer last year: http://www.murphysedinburgh.co.uk/01FOL ... UN2007.htm - of course, lighting conditions may vary. They hold this run, rather persversely, just when it is getting dark.peterottaway wrote:Even considering the poor light, how well in comparison does the Nikon D3x reproduce reds ? I'm assuming that Scotland does not have it's own specification for Santa Red. Because to get decent landscapes around here good red-brown, red-gold, ochre and reds in both tone and texture are important.
Now is not the time in Scotland to be checking high intensity natural light colours. But after your studio shots I was interested if you had developed a feel for the reproduction of red shades or if they required more work with the Nikon in comparison to the Sony A900.
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