Lonnie Utah wrote:ftomas_2010 wrote:He is right about this one. I don't understand why sony abandoned this feature... for those who shot in P, it was an handy feature, of course i can change to A or S and choose the aperture and velocity.
Serious question, why shoot in P if you are going to manually select A or SS anyway?
I found that a-mount camera since the xi series when using Minolta/KM/Sony lenses the P-mode is quite good at evaluating the scene and selecting the aperture for the best DOF, particularly when shooting people.
Its easy for me to use A-mode when I want a lot of DOF or when I want none, but when working in the intermediate range, its not as easy as it was when using manual focus cameras where the lenses had long focus throws, precise distance and DOF scales.
For example, the instructions for the Minolta Portrait Card for the i and xi series shows what the camera would set for different portrait types. The xi and later cameras didn't need this because the cameras' expert systems did the same thing automatically when in P-mode.
Some examples of the settings (for 35mm) using the 85 f/1.4 lens:
Tight Head Shot -- f/5.6 (notice, its not fully open)
Head and Shoulders -- f/2.8
Head to waist -- f/1.7
Head to knees of adult -- f/1.4 (finally you get to use the lens fully open)
Standing adult with space around them -- f/2
There's no way I could figure out those f/stops and set them without a table and a better lens distance / DOF scale (particularly with zoom lenses).
When I tried my 100mm f/2.8 and did a series like this, I got different values, but the same trend. Once I moved further back than the "standing adult with space around them" (in P-mode) the lens went from fully open to f/11 as the camera automatically assumed I was taking an environmental portrait where I wanted both Aunt Tilly and the Washington Monument (in the distant background) in the DOF.
So I use P-mode when I'm taking people shots. But when I don't want a standard "portrait" even though the camera thinks that's best, I just click the control wheel and shift my aperture.
Another example - I'm photographing a crafts fair. Most of the time I'm shooting people (visitors and craftsmen.) So I have the camera on P. But one of the craftsmen (a very old man with a time worn face) is doing some very intricate work and he has a great display of his works on a wall behind him. I want three shots. 1 - a head shot of him concentrating; 2 - A shot of him and his hands working; 3 - A wider shot of him and the board behind him. I may have to move back to increase the view, or just change FL with a zoom to get the different compositions. Very easy. I have my eye to the camera, when I like his expression I shoot in P, and the camera sets a fairly open aperture to isolate him, then I shift to f/11-13 and shoot him and his hands, and then him and the background display. Then I just shoot my next sequence in P-again. Sure I could switch back and forth between P and A or just shoot a bunch in A at different apertures and sort them out later. But they gave me the tool and I like how I do it.
tom